My travels throughout the Southwest

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About my latest journey

Below is a map of my trip.  It started on June 8, 2011 in San Bernardino CA and ended on August 8, 2011 in San Bernardino.

0-San Bernardino CA (can’t wait to get out of this town!)
1-Yuma AZ (after driving all day stayed overnight at a rest stop a few mile east of Yuma)
2-El Paso, TX (took wrong freeway and went to El Paso, Texas instead of Las Cruces, NM)
3-Roswell, NM (stayed a couple of weeks at Bottomless Lake State Park outside of Roswell – home of the UFO mystery)
4-Fort Sumner NM (stayed a week at Fort Sumner Lake 10 miles from Fort Sumner where Billy the Kid is buried)
5-Santa Rosa NM (stayed at Santa Rosa Lake State Park for over two weeks – very hospitable place)
6-Villanueva NM (stayed three weeks at Villanueva State Park five miles from town of Villanueva)
7-Las Vegas, NM (visited twice while at Villanueva SP)
8-Santa Fe NM (visited three times while at Villanueva SP, beautiful city but extremely commercial)
9-Villanueva NM (got my food supplies there while at Villanueva State Park, 3 miles down the road)
10-Placitas NM (visited relatives, met relative I hadn’t seen since age 12)
11-Albuquerque NM (drove through downtown, did some shopping)
12-Taos NM (visited several times while camping at Carson National Forest and Cimmaron State Park, I love this city)
13-Angel Fire, Enchanted Circle (Ski resort community in the midst of green pastures and forests, home to a Vietnam Memorial)
14-Eagle Nest, Enchanted Circle (visited several times while camping at Cimmaron State Park – a haven for RVers and bikers)
15-Chama NM (drove through on route to Four Corners, a forest surrounded community known for an old fashion train ride)
16-Antonito CO (drove through on route to Four Corners, but took some pictures of historical sites)
17-Cumbres CO (drove through on route to Four Corners, nice scenery on Route 17)
18-Shiprock NM (drove through on route to Four Corners, part of Navajo Nation; poverty and unemployment visible)
19-Four Corners NM (spent half a day)
20-Gallup NM (drove through in route to California, shopping)
21-Flagstaff AZ (drove through in route to California)
22-Phoenix AZ (drove through in route to California)
23-Blythe CA (drove through in route to California, Hot! Hot! Hot! and Hotter!)
24-San Bernardino CA (haaaa – home at last)

Camping in the Southwest

I visited or stayed at five New Mexico State Parks and three New Mexico National Forests.  I also slept overnight at several rest stops and in areas where truckers would pullover.  My dog, Tigre, was my constant companion and he accompanied me everywhere I went except areas that did not permit pets.

I am considering another trip soon and while there are many possibilities, I am waiting for the “sign” that will point the way.  Nothing is coincidence and there are no chance meetings.

Hasta pronto, my friend

George Martinez

 

 

Four Corners, New Mexico – The End of this Journey

On Monday, August 8, 2011, I left Navajo Lake State Park in the northeastern part of New Mexico to visit Four Corners National Monument, known for being the only place in the United States where four states contiguously share a common border. These states are New Mexico, Arizona, Utah and Colorado.

I have for years wanted to visit this location and thus it represents a life-long dream realized. Why? I am not sure but perhaps the concept of unity is symbolized here or perhaps it is the fact that it is within the Navajo Nation, which administers this monument or simply I am drawn to unusual places, places that fascinate. Whatever the reason, I could now end my journey, at least for a while.

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I told one of the Navajo vendors, Cynthia Yazzie, from whom I purchased an item that I had come because of a dream wherein my future depended on my reaching this point, this geographic location in the Southwest. She looked at me with eyes of some understanding, since the Native American psyche is governed by visions and quests. The Hopi painting I purchased from Randy Dukepoo, who you will find in the photos above was unique to me because the depiction was that of a warrior which I was in Vietnam. Randy has been creating beautiful pieces of artwork for 36 years having started as a child under the tutelage of his father. Randy does Kachina dolls, sculptures, Silkscreen, acrylic paintings, wooden feathers and bows and arrows. You can reach him at (970) 560-0577. Cynthia can be contacted at echiwa84510@yahoo.com.

Several hours after leaving Navajo Lake I arrived at Four Corners but too late in the evening and was forced to spend the night by the side of the highway. Just before sunrise I drove to the entrance of Four Corners and waited for the gates to open at 7:00 AM.

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The photographs below are my last shots of New Mexico. specifically, Lake Navajo State Park, and scenes I found interesting.
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There is a saying in the Lakota culture which phonetically sounds like Ah ho mi taquasi or “All my relations.” Indeed, my fellow human beings, the plants, the animals, the birds that fly and the creatures that crawl are all my relations. We need to feel that connection and perhaps this trip was a way of connecting to all my fellow creatures on this fragile planet called Earth.

My thanks to Tigre, my canine friend, for sharing my journey, to my daughters for praying for me and my friends and readers who encouraged me. For those who wish to ask me any questions, my email address is jorgeofjungle@sbcglobal.net. The journey is just beginning.

I hope you have enjoyed taking this journey with me and I will continue to post some items of interest to me as I prepared for my next adventure.  My life has changed with this journey.  Ah ho mi taquasi!

Leaving Cimarron Canyon State Park goin’ to Chama

Left Cimarron State park on the Enchanted Circle after about a week and a half and headed toward Chama who everyone one told was worth the trip.  I decided to go north through Colorado to see the Rio Grande National Forest on Route 17 which was spectacular.  Chama is a small forest community but it is also know for its scenic train ride through the Rio Grande National Forest.  Will not have the time or money to “all aboard!” but perhaps next time.

Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Ride

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There is one more state park I will probably stay at for a couple of days and that is Navajo Lake State Park in New Mexico.  After that it is Four Corners, then a mad dash to California.  I have some doctor’s appointments at the V.A. hospital and other things to do.

 

 

New direction

Lucky Shoe Bar and Grill, Eagle Nest Lake

This the is Lucky Shoe Bar and Grill and I come here to eat and use their Internet access.  The food is good and service better.  It is at the south end of Eagle Nest a very small community right next to Eagle Nest lake, another state park, however this one is just for fishing, no camping.

From here planning to go north to the Colorado border.  Heard there were some beautiful sights in that direction.

Hasta pronto.

Jorge

Note

Have been on the road for a little more than two and a half months so I will turn around and start heading home. That is not to say I will not stop here and there, but its time to regroup and plan my future trips. I have really enjoyed it and I have learned much – about others as well as myself.

Will keep writing and taking pictures.

Hasta la proxima vez, amigo.

George

A Time to Remember: The Vietnam Veteran Memorial State Park, NM

I am sitting in the parking lot of the Vietnam Veteran Memorial State Park located a mile from Angel Fire, New Mexico, a ski town nestled in a valley surrounded by forested mountains. This monument was originally the singular project of Victor and Jeanne Westphall who lost their son David in Vietnam. It was later a joint venture with DAV (Disabled American Veterans) then a state park working in cooperation with the Westphall Foundation and local support groups.

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As I left the visitor center, one of the volunteers mentioned that I had been there before and I replied that this was my second time in the same number of weeks. I could only take so much each time but that I would return for a third, go around.  That was Louise pictured below and to the right.  She was an ex-Marine and had lost her husband in Vietnam.  She knew the pain of the old veterans visiting this wonderfully sublime memorial.  Gayle, pictured on the left in the photo was in the gift shop but she also was a researcher looking for KIAs to be listed by state in the Memorial’s archives.  She helped me look for a Marine pilot, Captain White, I saw shot down in support of our operations.  It has been a dream of mine to locate his family and share his courage with them as I been a witness to his sacrifice.  She used “The Wall,” a database for such purposes.  By the way, the picture in the background is by JD Challenger, A Taos-based artist who dedicated this well known painting to the Memorial.  If you are in Taos, NM you must visit his gallery.  Link: JDChallenger

Gayle and Louise, Volunteers at the Memorial

I’ve never had flash backs of the war though a day does not go by when something or someone reminds me of that time. Helicopters, green camouflage, firearms, canned foods, peanut butter and chocolate, thick vegetation, the list goes on.

The family that set up this memorial for their son and later as a memorial for all veterans did not want us to forget the sacrifice nor the consequence of war. So many parents, wives, sons and daughters lost their dearest loved ones in the name of country and honor.  It is only right and just that we continue to remember their sacrifice.

No one can really understand what war is like unless you’ve been through it and no one should ever go through that experience. The Vietnam War was a mistake, as so many political leaders that initiated it now conclude. It was a narrow and misguided foreign policy decision. But as they told us in the Corps, “Ours is not to reason why, ours is just to do and die.” Hard words to live by.

I became a pacifist after the war and while I did not actively protest like many Veterans against war, then and now, I no longer support war as an alternative to foreign-based conflicts not even as a last resort – there are too many alternatives to conflict resolution. They would have to cross the ocean, intrude on my soil or water with intended aggression before I took up arms again. Like it or not, it remains my position.

We need mature leaders in Washington of the kind that do not profit from war’s tragedy. There are too many elected officials who under pressure from corporate lobbyists, support legislation that increases our presence on foreign soil. The military/industrial complex that President Eisenhower warned us about in his departure speech is real and operates today, but not in the interests of the American people.

Semper fi.

George Martinez

Link to “Dear America: Letters from Vietnam”

Kindness is an underrated act

A few sites down from my campsite is a guy who has no tent, sleeps in his van, has license plates from Florida and just walks around the path that follows the entire campsite. At first he seemed odd in that he rarely said anything other than good morning and not all the time. He’d walk looking straight ahead as if thinking about something and smiling occasionally. I finally stopped by for a minute and chatted with him. He sounded lucid if you know what I mean and I plan to approach him later and maybe strike up a longer conversation. Reaching out can be difficult but who knows within an old crusty clam may be a pearl.

Getting cold in the Rockies

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Actually, the Sangre de Cristo (blood of Christ) Mountains that overlook the Taos Valley are part of the Rockies, which I did not realize which explains why I have had to zipper up my sleeping bag in the wee early hours of the morning.  Angel Fire which I drive through to get to lower elevations is between 8,000 ft. and 9,000 ft.

However, as an ex-Marine, I am always prepared.  Have a heater for the tent (designed not to emit fumes but you need to leave a vent for oxygen), my shower stall (see pictures), and extra blankets.  While in the Corps our motto was Proper Prior Planning Prevents Poor Performance (The 6 Ps ) rather like Boys Scouts of which I was also a member (I was only a tenderfoot – I cannot tell a lie).

Today I am at the library again and I was in the Art Gallery of J.D. Challenger, a well known artist but more importantly the inspiration for my cousin’s wife, Chris who is an Indian doll sculpture artist (I think I just made that up).  Any way she begged me to take her portfolio so he could autograph it which he will later this afternoon.  She will be very pleased and happy that I was able to find him.  I have an even greater surprise which will wait for later.  By the way she is a super artist of the Indian motif and soon I will post some of her work so you can admire it.  I am not just saying that because she is related – she is good.

I wish to thank all of you that have send in replies to my posts.  I was not really aware anyone was following my journeys.  To me it is just a journal of my travels through New Mexico.  I do plan to return home to San Bernardino CA in a couple of weeks to reassess my gear have my Montero tuned up and perhaps Colorado will be my next adventure.  Any one want to join in?

New Mexico and its politics

While you may find the national debt, elected official misconduct and the poor state of the economy as topics of interest in most local newspapers in New Mexico, there are some topics uniquely New Mexican.

Season for hunting

Those wishing to keep New Mexico a haven for wild life and open spaces are currently concerned with the removal of a ban on wolf hunting. The Mexican Grey Wolf and others is the target of farmers, miners and others who see the wolf as a nuance and threat to their livelihood. Wolf traps are especially abhorrent as wildlife photographers have documented wolves with amputated legs. The wolves rather than stay trapped will chew their paws or legs off to survive.

Another issue is the concern within the artist communities in Taos, Santa Fe as well as Albuquerque with the promotion and support of markets, shops, as well as the visual and performing arts. There is little doubt that tourism plays a big part in the economy of these artistic havens. How to balance creative individualism with necessary commercialism and honesty in cultural representations is no easy task. Whether it is the Albuquerque Journal, Santa Fe New Mexican or Taos News, the people’s voice is clear – we must preserve our way of life or we go the route of urban anonymity.

Nature’s melting pot

As I go from campsite to campsite I am struck by the diversity of people that visit our parks and wilderness areas. Bikers, snow birders (retirees), young couples in love, families, solitary men and women with or without dogs, and the occasional hermit.

They all have something in common. It is either a time to remember better times with mom and dad, or to seek intimacy with nature or among themselves. Whatever the reason(s) they do live together in harmony and peace. Some bikers occupied a site next to mine a couple of days ago and came over to chat. People love Tigre’s liveliness and come over to pet him. Some see my hat and ask me what unit I belonged to in Vietnam, the opportunities are endless.

Gracias a Dios que tuve la oportunidad.

Hello, is anyone out there?

Taos Public Library, downtown

Just a very brief note.  I am sitting in the parking lot of the Taos Public Library, taking advantage of their free wii fi.  (Don’t you just love these guy and gals – librarians were the first to deny the government intelligence agencies the right to view book checkout records in their frantic search for terrorists and angry citizens).

Since I lost my Sprint modem, I’ve had to be on the lookout for “hot spots.”  Will post a new summary of my travels and observations soon. Just give me a few hours.  I will say this – the Enchanted Circle in the Carson National Forest in northern New Mexico is, no doubt, one of the most enchanting places to visit.  This is bear country so don’t leave your hamburger meat out at night. For a preview to the beauty of this area, google Taos, Cuesta, Angel Fire or Eagle Nest.  Prior to my arrival in this area I was in Albuquerque, Santa Fe and a couple of state parks farther south.

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Since Villanueva State Park, I have traveled to Placitas, NM is visit unknown relatives and lots of cousins.  For later, but it might be that I am related to General George Patton.  It seem my great grandfather was from Spain, later changed his name to Paton, subsequently to Patron to blend in with the natives.  No wonder I became a captain in the Marine Corps and volunteered for VIetnam!  More on that later.

Hard to stop, but I must. Will provide more detail and photos of key points of interest later.

 

 

 

Photos of Las Vegas, New Mexico

Entrance to New Mexico Highlands University

These are photos of the New Mexico Highlands University and some of the shops along the Old Town District.  I was told by a young attractive barber who cut my hair (she was a part-time student at the University) that the population of Las Vegas is about 6,000.

Long history and established

She described it as a University town, but her heart was in Chama where she if from originally.  She would return there if it was not for her studies and the need to support her two children.  I wished her luck as she did me.

Old Town Las Vegas

This is a town up north on the next to the Colorado border and was one of the places I wished to visit as I not only heard it was beautiful (forests and mountains) but there was land to be purchased there.

The Music Album shop in Las Vegas. Pictured under the Indian Sculpture is Alfonso

Well, it may be a while before my next post and it will be from Placitas New Mexico.  A Dios Amigos.

Just a note

I haven’t been posting much this week.  I broke my Sprint modem, so I am relying on hot spots along the way.  Right now I am at the New Mexico Highlands University in Las Vegas.  No, not Nevada, New Mexico and incidentally there is no legalized gambling here.  Las Vegas is a university town.  Still at my campsite but leaving in two days for the adventure of a life time.  Will keep you posted.

Farewell to Villanueva

My last weekend at Villanueva State Park saw the celebration of a major saint’s day, Fiesta Anual de Santiago Apóstol, held usually on July 25.  The little town of Villanueva put its best face forward with a band, dance, food sales, a horse parade and plenty of jovial conversation.  The little town was maybe 5 miles from the state park and was where I purchased my supplies and went to get a better signal for my cell phone as the camp grounds were in a boxed canyon surrounded by high ridges.

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More Photos

Hey, it tough being a dog

Here’s Tigre resting from the mid-day sun in the tent, on my sleeping bag.  Que a gusto! Tigre sleeps in the tent at night and wakes up around 6:20 AM, almost to the minute.  He wakes up happy, playful, runs outside then comes in to take a short nap at my feet.  I usually get up around 8:00AM.

The following picture I took in Bernal, a small community not far from Villanueva.  The bottles of beer were placed there by a concerned citizen who wanted to alert drivers to a serious pot hole in the asphalt.  It is hard to see, but its there and without the bottle I probably would have gone over it.

Hazard! Warning!

In this area, quick showers will happen without notice and you are caught without warning.  However, the sun is so hot that your clothes dry in minutes – no problem!

My car and my clothes

Santa Fe Shops

The plaza is surrounded by many shopsYesterday I decided to drive into Santa Fe to get a hair cut, find the plaza that everyone talks about, and maybe visit the library or museum.  Forget the hair cut, the senior discount price is $16, double what I pay in San Bernardino.  I did find the Plaza where many of the loca artists sell their wares and it reminded me a lot of San Antonio, TX.

Beautiful wind chimes

Very touristy, upscale and definitely not cheap.  If I may be allowed a criticism, Santa Fe seems to focus more on the Spanish culture rather than the Pueblo Indian culture.  I saw ads for Flamenco dance, pottery from Spain and Portugal and of course, the Santa Fe Trail is a representation of the Spanish conquest of the Southwest after Mexico and Peru.

I think more needs to be done to recognize the Indian history and culture other than to mention their domination by both the Spanish and the Mexican government.

Pottery Shop

The Moon You Watch

The Moon You Watch

“This is Radio Free Santa Fe, 98.1, bringing you the best in music, old and new, country and romantic, baby!”

The wind gently passes through the portals of my rock patio and the sun prepares its retreat behind the ridges and hilltops of the canyon.  The white, round moon begins its ascent to hover over clouds that cover the darkening clear blue sky.  Soon, the man on the moon will light the landscape like neon lights on a city street, then like its brother, sun, will finish its ride only to return again tomorrow, a never ending cycle, a never ending miracle.

Juniper and Pine, big sisters along with little brother Manzanita wave good bye to the day of yester and camouflage the creatures of the night like fox, squirrel and chipmunk.  Someone heard an elk last night.  Rarely seen, cautious, and elusive like the wind that carrys its song, they roam the landscape like ghosts sentenced to eternal freedom.

My blistered feet touch the cooling stone floor and begin their rest till the morrow and I wonder what dreams my sleep will lure.  Tigre falls easily into slumber but his sense of smell and hearing are finely tuned to the night’s creatures, triggering from his normally gentle manner, low menacing growls to warn intruders.  Assured they have heeded his warning, he will look at me as if saying, it’s all right master, and once again he closes his eyes.  Good boy, Tigre.

Good night my love.  The moon you watch is the moon I watch, and someday we will watch it together.  Meanwhile, I’ll wander the roads and highways like a ghost sentenced to eternal freedom.

George Martinez

Villanueva State Park, New Mexico

July 16, 2011

Diary Entry – July 19, 2011, New Mexico

Tuesday, July 19, 2011, 11:45 AM

Yesterday, Monday morning, I drove to my “ signal spot” on I-25 to pick up a Sprint signal for the Internet. I updated my blog, downloaded my mail and checked to see if my daughters or Judy, my sister, had responded to my communications. Nope. I decided to call the number that Nena (my cousin on my father’s side) gave me for Rachael. Rachel was my Aunt Margaret’s daughter along with Nena and while I did not grow up with them, they remain fond memories of my youth.

I shocked Rachael as we had not talked in ages. I shocked her further by stating I was in New Mexico and wanted some information about contacting relatives. I told her about my plan to drive north to Raton, NM which is where my grandmother, Irene (Patron) was born and further that I wanted to attempt a trace of her father’s family. His name was Antonio Patron.

It was a short but cordial conversation and I told her I would call her again, once I had made contact with “Tia Gracie.” According to Rachael, the Trujillo family which is somehow tied to my grandmother, Irene, perhaps through marriage, dominates the town of Placitas. She states all the relatives are there and they own the only grocery store, etc. so all I have to do is ask anyone for “Gracie” and they’ll direct me to her.

Anyway, I ended the day by thinking about this conversation and tried to keep myself from getting too excited as it signified a major area of research for me and it might affect some possible decisions in the future. I already went online to Amazon.com and downloaded a Kindle book called Women’s Tales from the New Mexico WPA, La Diabla a Pie, a collection of Indian stories and folklore particular to this region of New Mexico. It seems, Placitas played a key part in New Mexico after the colonial period and a land grant given to the Trujillo family identifies them as one of the original settlers. Interestingly enough, Placitas also has a place in history with regard to the hippie movement of the 1960s. It was apparently a mecca for the hippies looking to establish communes, living lives close to the land, free love, and a better way of life.

This morning as I read Dr. Richard Flint’s book on the Coronado Expedition and the attempted subjugation of the Pueblo Indians (of which there is some blood coursing through my veins, albeit, very little), I marveled at the way destiny has a way of bring you to where you need to be at any point in time.

 

Wild horses of Placitas NM

My Plan: According my trip software, Placitas is approximately 1 ½ hours from Villanueva. This means I can keep my campsite at Villanueva State Park and go to Placitas, returning that day or the following day. I can secure my trailer and take anything of value with me to avoid a possible theft and wing it.

 

I still plan to go to Raton and perhaps the information I can get from “Tia Gracie” can help narrow my search.

Single family home in Placitas

A hike a day will not kill you but it will not keep the doctor away

Yesterday, Tigre and I went up a trail from the main camp at Villanueva State Park, and I would describe it as moderate to very difficult.  Nonetheless, we are proud of ourselves and our confidence grows with every challenge on this quest – well whatever this journey happens to be.  Here is the video for your enjoyment! 

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Coronado “Entrada” – No conquest

On Saturday, July 16, 2011, the staff at the Villanueva State Park coordinated a special presentation by noted archeologist/document historian, Dr. Richard Flint, Research Associate in History for the Center for Desert Archeology, Tucson, Arizona.  His one-hour presentation was part of the New Mexico State Park System’s series of educational lectures/workshops for visitors to the State Parks and in this case was extremely interesting and relevant to my interests in history and Native American culture.

Dr. Richard Flint

Essentially, Francisco Vasquez de Coronado, a captain for His Majesty, King Carlos I of Spain, undertook an “entrada” or expedition into previously unexplored new world territories (Tierra Nueva or new lands) between 1539 and 1542, for the purpose of establishing new colonies and reaping the products for Nuevo Espana and Spain.  Contrary to established belief the search was not for gold but for porcelain, spices and wares for the settlers of the new world, primarily in what is now Mexico.  The “conquistadores” were self-funded and fully expected to become administrators of such new territories along with land grants and associated profits.  It should be clear that no support was forthcoming from the crown in Spain, although in principal it was supported.

According to Dr. Flint, the Spanish explorers who participated in the expedition and wrote about it later seemed to indicate that the response of the Pueblo Indians to their presence was chaotic and unplanned.  As Dr. Flint clearly shows through his research and books, it was in fact very well preplanned and based on serious reconnaissance on the part of the Indians with subsequent detailed planning about how to deal with the Spanish to the point of having different responses depending on the situation.

“One of the things I am going to try to show is that there were four different ways in which we have been able to identify their response to the Coronado expedition.

First of all they collected intelligence in a very methodical way, consulting among themselves, between villages, about what to do.  There was actually a planning process going on prior to the arrival of the Coronado expedition.

When the expedition arrived there were two distinct strategies.  One is what I call defensive withdrawal.  That was taking themselves out of their usual homes, going to easily defended cities, elevated that is high, thus engaging the advantage of horses.  Secondly, with encounters (contacts with the Spaniards) they chose to limit their encounters with people within their own community, especially those that specialized in dealing with outsiders.”

Historical Marker at entrance to Villanueva

It would seem from the above that the Pueblo Indians that occupied the lands in and about the Zuni and Gila rivers were not above suspicion and needed to know if their visitors were well intentioned or not.  Had they known that Coronado planned to make them subjects of Spain, convert them to Catholicism and take their food and wares they would have probably been more aggressive from the start, although it is doubtful it would have presented much of an advantage in the long run.  Fortunately for the Pueblo Indians, Coronado and his army of 2,000 mostly Indians from Mexico, decided the spoils were hardly worth the taking and they abandoned their “conquest” and returned to Mexico.

 

About a dozen visitors to Villanueva came to hear him speak last Saturday

 

To go deeper into Dr. Flint’s findings and unique discoveries goes beyond the scope of this blog, so I suggest the reader to look up Dr. Richard Flint on Amazon.com for additional books he has published.  The one book I purchased from him is entitled No Settlement, No Conquest and while I am still in the process of reading it, but it is an excellent read – highly recommended.

 

Francisco Vasquez de Coronado. Wikimedia Commons (Public Domain)

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